On The Road--Traveling to Key West

I went on a road trip the other weekend. Now, there’s nothing I like better than a road trip—the feeling of moving forward—the strange food in little known restaurants—the different landscapes—different demographics—the radio stations—the shops, the groceries, the dives. It’s addicting, this seeing how other people live, seeing what they think is ‘necessary’ to them, and what level of ‘necessary’ is required.

This trip was to Key West. For those of you who haven’t been, it’s definitely a destination you should put on your list. But it’s not the destination of Key West, that final point at the end of the continental U.S with the galleries and restaurants and Mallory Pier at sunset, that is important. It’s the journey getting there. And what happens to you on that journey.

The first Key in line is Key Largo. It still has many of the amenities you’d find near Miami proper. But it is also full of dive shops and dive charters that serve those who want to experience some of the best diving and snorkeling opportunities in the nation. It is here that you will begin to feel like the mainland is far behind. Your tidy home, your serious job, is behind you--somewhere. You will begin to get sun-streaked and wind-blown, and all those things you thought were so important to worry about suddenly don’t seem very important at all.

The next key you hit on your drive is Islamorada, home of many of the famous Keys fish tournaments. The entire key is all about fishing, boating, diving, and water sports. Though there are plenty of comforts in Islamorada, they are all outdoor-centered. The turquoise waters of the Keys will be your home for the rest of your visit. Even if you aren’t an avid fisherman, you will still become a creature of the water. Lying on beaches, photographing the water and boats, watching the sea birds. You may come off the water—shower—change—go to a nice restaurant—visit a shop or gallery--but the conversation is all about what was done on the water, or what will be done tomorrow on the water.

Marathon is your next city on the road to Key West. It is the last big city you will see for a while, so if you need to provision your trip, do it Marathon. Marathon has an airport, charters, resorts, restaurants—everything to make you comfortable. But even here, it’s all about the water. Getting back on the water--information about the water—the weather—the fishing—the diving.

By the time you get on 7-Mile Bridge on Big Pine Key just south of Marathon, you will have made the transformation. You don’t dress up anymore. A tee shirt and shorts—usually over your swimsuit—is your uniform. You don’t comb your hair anymore. You don’t wear make-up. There doesn’t seem to be a point to these things anymore. People aren’t looking at you, they aren’t judging you, and they aren’t comparing you. They are thinking about the water. Where to swim. The best fishing spot. What boat rental to go to. Where to grab a sandwich to bring on board. Sunscreen will be tucked into your pocket. A rumpled hat will be on your head. You keep a tight hold on your sunglasses. That’s all that seems important.

By the time you reach Key West, it’s like another country. You have made the break with the mainland, not only physically, but emotionally. You have surrendered to a hedonism of the most primitive kind. You roll into town, surprised and blinking at the bustle and crowds of tourists. You reluctantly consent to town life—only temporarily—waiting to get back to the waterlife that has became a part of you. You visit the galleries and bars, you sit in waterfront restaurants eating fine food. You see the nightly show at Mallory Pier. You visit the shops and buy fudge and souvenirs and tee shirts. But your heart is back on the water. And you find every possible excuse to get back to it.

And if you have any sense at all, you will follow your heart.